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 Phony seams
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Ceil
Permanent Resident

USA
1731 Posts

Posted - 01/13/2011 :  10:52:45 PM  Show Profile  Visit Ceil's Homepage Send Ceil a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Yes, I know about EZís phony seam (draw 2 bars through, draw 1 bar through), so no need to repeat that one.

However, one of my knitting friends suggests picking up every OTHER bar on the RS, and then ďhooking upĒ the remaining bars on the WS. I looked diligently on the Internet for this method, and could only find EZís, described above. Has anyone done this inside/outside method, and if so, did you like the effect?

What other variants are out there? I have wondered about modifying EZís method to draw through one bar 2 or 3 times before drawing 2 through. Worth trying?

Please enlighten! Thanks!


Ceil
Time is never a factor when joy is involved.

eldergirl
Permanent Resident

USA
1797 Posts

Posted - 01/14/2011 :  5:17:53 PM  Show Profile Send eldergirl a Private Message  Reply with Quote
My learning on EZ's phony seam is pick up one loop, skip one bar of the next row stitch, crochet one stitch into the next bar of the stitch. This is a light and yet working finish.

Putting the crochet stitches inside the sweater would make the sweater bulge out a little along the seam line, because of the stiffness created by all the stitches.

The simple row of stitches mentioned above creates just a little "folding" movement for the sides, which is helpful for blocking, and more flattering for wearing.

Lots of knitters don't bother with the phony seam, but I think it is one of those little finesse practices which helps a circular-knit sweater to be better!

Sorry if I haven't been clear, hope this helps!
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Ceil
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USA
1731 Posts

Posted - 01/14/2011 :  11:54:55 PM  Show Profile  Visit Ceil's Homepage Send Ceil a Private Message  Reply with Quote
OK! I'll have to sample and try these (much as I'd rather not swatch )

My understanding about EZ's seam is to pu 1 bar, then pu the next 2 to draw through, and so on. The method my friend suggested is worked both on the outside and the inside.

I'll see what the swatch says. Thanks, eldergirl!

Ceil
Time is never a factor when joy is involved.
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eldergirl
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USA
1797 Posts

Posted - 01/16/2011 :  5:13:52 PM  Show Profile Send eldergirl a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Why not read EZ herself? Back to the Master!
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Kade1301
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France
1438 Posts

Posted - 01/17/2011 :  06:07:05 AM  Show Profile  Visit Kade1301's Homepage Send Kade1301 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Why would anybody do phony (presumably visible?) seams when we try to make real, necessary seams as invisible as possible? I don't get it...

Bye, Klara

http://www.lahottee.info
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Marie
Chatty Knitter

347 Posts

Posted - 01/17/2011 :  06:21:15 AM  Show Profile Send Marie a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Ceil, it sounds a bit like EZ's phony seam for garter stitch (vs. stockinette). The resulting phony seam produces a single stocking stitch running through the garter, and makes the garter reversible because both sides are identical.

Time you enjoy wasting, is not wasted. ~John Lennon
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Ceil
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USA
1731 Posts

Posted - 01/17/2011 :  5:05:17 PM  Show Profile  Visit Ceil's Homepage Send Ceil a Private Message  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Kade1301

Why would anybody do phony (presumably visible?) seams when we try to make real, necessary seams as invisible as possible? I don't get it...

Bye, Klara

http://www.lahottee.info



Yes, this does sound strange, but the reason you do it is to stabilize the garment. I'm concerned about the 50% silk making the sweater grow down to my knees!

Ceil
Time is never a factor when joy is involved.
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Kade1301
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France
1438 Posts

Posted - 01/18/2011 :  04:03:21 AM  Show Profile  Visit Kade1301's Homepage Send Kade1301 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hmm, it's probably heresy, but how about simply sewing a strip of fabric where the seam would be? Of course that might not stop the front and back from growing... I'd probably sew a strip wherever I thought I needed one (it's horizontal elasticity that makes knitting so comfortable and narrow strips wouldn't change that). (But then, I stopped a decolletť from plunging to my navel by threading a piece of non-elastic yarn through the edge, pulling it to the desired height and knotting it).

I suppose I'm lucky that my 3-pound cabled sweater has 4 side seams anyway...

Bye, Klara

http://www.lahottee.info
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arlinem
Gabber Extraordinaire

USA
442 Posts

Posted - 01/18/2011 :  8:31:55 PM  Show Profile Send arlinem a Private Message  Reply with Quote
actually Kade, that would work and it's been done although i've only seen it done at the shoulder. twill tape is sewn in by hand. it adds strength to the area. elizabeth zimmerman put grosgraine ribbon on the inside of her button band on her green sweater. there's really no reason not to.
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Lanea
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USA
5189 Posts

Posted - 01/19/2011 :  05:48:37 AM  Show Profile  Visit Lanea's Homepage Send Lanea a Private Message  Reply with Quote
I would actually be very careful sewing any sort of reinforcing tape into a sweater. The thread used to sew in the tape can actually saw through the yarn of the sweater over time, and if you use a synthetic thread on a natural fiber yarn, that can happen pretty quickly. In a button band, you may have multiple layers of knitting to attach the tape to, where a side seam will see a lot of motion and is not likely to have multiple layers of knitting. Often, the tape in a button band is there to protect the knitting from the wear caused by the buttons and around button holes, so you're choosing the lesser of two evils adding that tape. In a side seam, that's rarely the case.

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Ceil
Permanent Resident

USA
1731 Posts

Posted - 01/19/2011 :  09:51:52 AM  Show Profile  Visit Ceil's Homepage Send Ceil a Private Message  Reply with Quote
OK, everyone, I know a lot more now. Here is what I found out:

I worked a long sample, 25 sts wide, using my sweater yarn (there were two small balls of yarn left after finishing the body, so I used it all). Before binding off, I made two phony seams 8 sts from each edge.

The 2-1-2-1 seam is just right. (I was concerned that the fold everyone talked about would be closer to a hard crease, but thankfully not so.) This seam has a little bit of stretch and feels good. Plus, itís easy to do. Iíve already done this on the sweater, and it draws up the sides just right. One thing I learned is the importance of holding the crochet hook parallel to the columns. I almost redrew a bar with another one when pulling 2 through. So, be careful there.

For the other seam, I drew through every other bar on the outside, then did the same for the remaining bars on the inside. I thought I would like this better, but I donít like the hardness of feel it gives, and wonder if the stitches on the inside might feel bothersome when the sweater is worn. It drew the fabric up more, perhaps a little too much. But the bigger thing is how much easier it was to miss the right bar on the first side. One of the outside sts clearly spans 3 rows instead of 2. So, itís easier to make a mistake with this method.

Iím soaking the swatch for blocking as I write. Itís good to tag and hang onto for future reference. I encourage you all to do the same.

Thanks, everyone, for your help!

Ceil
(Ravelry: ceilr)
Time is never a factor when joy is involved.
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